Master informational guide for Gogul Visor
Q: Can you see?
A: Straight-forward visibility will most likely be impaired. This can range from slight to complete impairment, depending on lens combination and darkness of the environment. The darker it is, the harder it is to see. However, visibility below the visor, towards the ground, is good. See some visibility examples at the bottom of the page (click here to scroll).
Q: How is the visor worn?
A: An elastic cord goes over the ear and around the head. Tension can be adjusted by moving stop knots in the cord. The cord slots can also accept a variety of other DIY securement methods.
Q: What if the visor is too narrow?
A: The end stops can be shaved down, allowing the arms to open wider. You can also try shaving down or replacing the foam pads on the arms, just beware of the wires underneath. See video below.
Q: What if the elastic is too tight?
A: Elastic cord is readily available at craft stores. You can also try another cordage, such as a shoelace. You can also cut the elastic cord in half and add cordage to the center with fisherman's knots.
Q: What if the visor doesn't sit on my nose comfortably?
A (small nose): If the visor sags because it isn't touching your nose bridge, try wearing it upside down. The forehead foam might reach your nose, and the panels can be flipped accordingly. If that doesn't work or is too goofy, try to zip-tie on additional padding such as rolled fabric.
A (big nose): If the visor sits too high on your nose, you can try to zip-tie additional padding to the forehead foam to push the visor away from your face. You can also try removing the nose pad foam.
Q: It won't fit no matter what I do!?
A: If you have had it for less than a month and it is in new condition, you can return it, minus the cost of return shipping. Contact me.
Q: What if the LED's don't work? (WARRANTY)
A: First try basic troubleshooting: Swap the batteries. Check for broken wires at the arm hinges, as this is the most likely place for something to eventually break. Which switches don't work?
If something has broken and you have had it for less than a month, I'll repair or replace it at no cost to you. If you've had it for more than a month, I'll try to troubleshoot and instruct you on how to fix it. I'm a small business and these handmade devices might have some undiscovered bugs, so I appreciate your understanding.
Q: Can I order other panels/lenses?
A: You can buy additional lenses and faceplates. I don't usually sell additional side panels because they're mostly the same except for special models. Beware - some panel and/or lens combinations will only work as originally intended.
Q: Why doesn't my model have buttons like some others do?
A: Momentary buttons are omitted if they wouldn't have any interesting effect. This is usually in the case of the RGB shifting LEDs, which must be toggled on.
Toggle switches: All models have two LED channels which can be toggled on with the switches on the bottom of the visor.
Momentary switches: Some models have momentary switches on the top of the visor. When the toggle switch is set to OFF, the momentary switch turns the LED channel ON. When the toggle switch is set to ON, the momentary switch turns the LED channel OFF.
Each arm has a battery under the cover panel. Use a 2mm metric hex wrench to remove the (2) M3x6 screws. Release the battery clip to remove and replace the CR2032 battery.
Use a 2mm metrix hex wrench to remove the (2) M3x6 screws from the faceplate. Push the lenses out from the inside, applying even pressure on each side. The lenses and faceplate can be replaced in any order and any orientation. Same goes for the side panels.
If the light is too bright on your eyes, consider adding electrical tape to the rearmost lens to block some of the light.
The panels are easy to remove and paint. You can even use them as templates to make your own panels from your preferred construction material.
The frame has (4) unused holes for captured M3 nuts. Clever makers can use these points to attach stuff to the top and bottom. The face of the frame has more unused holes: (4) @ 1mm for small screws, and (4) @ 3.5mm for large screws or heat-setting M3 nut inserts. There are also (10) zip-tie slots for attaching additional padding.
Cameras see differently than eyeballs.
The combined perspective of both eyes improves visibility a bit beyond these pictures.